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Cats require much less raising, care, and maintenance than dogs do. You will still need to kitten-proof and supervise your children with the cat, but this might be a better alternative. Conversely, if small children are already in the household, waiting until the chil- dren are between eight and ten years of age is rec- ommended.

Never assume the children will care for your puppy or dog. Raising a puppy is not a learning experience for your children. Only bring a puppy into the household if the adult owners both agree that this is the right idea at the right time. Introduce the leash and collar when the puppy comes home for the first time.

Keep your puppy on a leash while she is out of the crate. Allow her to drag her leash around so that it will become a normal part of her day-to-day life.

Stay in constant watch of your puppy. The more you watch and direct his every action, the fewer mistakes he will make. Less mis- takes means less stress for the owner. Easy, yes? Play the name game and call her back and praise her for following your lead. Keep your puppy on a leash in order to redirect him more neutrally. If you see him get into something inappropriate, gently tug the leash and call his name without anger to call him away from his mistake.

Keep in mind that puppies are truly making mistakes in this stage. If we respond to mistakes with anger, our puppies may accidentally learn that exploring is negative and that we are negative! Mistakes are mistakes at this stage. The only thing they need to learn is that their leaders will help them learn fairly and calmly. Be a good baby-sitter. Balls, chew toys, puppy manners exercises, walks, etc.

This is the easiest way to prevent errors. You may need to crate her simply to pay bills or cook dinner, and then take her out again. Keep chew toys in every room in which you wish to take your puppy.

Never use a choker chain or prong collar for teth- ering, and never tether your puppy unattended or for long periods without supervision. You may want to have several tethers already set up around your house. Pick the most used rooms like your bedroom, office, and living room.

Have a tether already set up in each room so that you can easily hook your puppy up to it as you move around the house with her. The crate is the safest and most effective form of confinement. Socialize your puppy to it immedi- ately and continue to use it through maturity 2�3 years.

It provides safety and respect in many areas. Crating provides a housebreaking tool, structure, acceptance of boundaries, puppy safety, property safety, and relationship preservation. The crate is an excellent housebreaking tool.

The goal of its use is to stim- ulate cleanliness. Simply using the crate on a regular basis allows the puppy to accept the concept of rules of the house. Acceptance of Boundaries. This helps achieve one of your main puppy goals. These are the times when crate usage is also positive and helpful. Household dangers range from puppies falling down the steps to puppies chewing wires, ingesting the wrong items, etc.

Property Safety. Contrary to popu- lar belief, these things are accidents in puppy- hood, but can be prevented by using the crate for the times when your puppy is unsupervised. Relationship Saver. Using your crate to give you and your puppy some time away from each other is important in maintaining a good relation- ship. When we, or our puppies, become tired and stressed, both run the risk of acting inappropri- ately.

Our voices and body language become stressed while our puppies can end up making destructive mistakes. One size fits all. During the housebreaking period, block off the rear of the crate with wood slats or crate dividers available at larger pet stores.

As your puppy gets better at keeping the crate clean, gradually increase the available living space. The crate should be big enough for the puppy to stand up in, turn around in, and lie down in comfortably. Setting Up the Crate Assemble the crate away from the puppy. Have someone take him on a walk that will last at least a half hour. Introduce your puppy to the surface on which he will be resting.

Take the pan out of the crate and allow the puppy to investigate it. Place some treats on the pan to help out. The same idea is important for the plastic crates. Sep- arate the halves and allow the puppy to play in the bottom half.

Cushion the bottom of the metal crate. Sometimes the noise your puppy makes walking on the pan can scare him. To dull the sound, place the crate on a carpet or cut up the cardboard box and place the cardboard under- neath the pan. Location of the Crate Place the crate in a quiet location. The goal of being in the crate is to rest and relax. If the crate is located in the kitchen or other high-traffic area, your puppy will not rest ade- quately and may develop problems from being overtired.

The ideal place is in a separate room behind a closed door. Bedrooms are the ideal place for the crate. This is the room where you the owner leave the most scent. Your puppy will feel closest to you here and will get the best rest here. Use the crate, not the gate.

Puppies need their own space. These areas are shared-space areas. How relaxing would it be if your bedroom doubled as the kitchen? Maybe your puppy has been socialized to the crate at the breeder, maybe not. Since the crate is one of the most important tools in raising and training your puppy, it is time to be brave!

Your attitude toward the crate will greatly influence how your puppy accepts this aspect of his life. Remember, adult dogs spend significant amounts of time alone; it is essential they learn to self-soothe now. Place your puppy in the crate. Give your puppy their favorite treat. Always have a pleasant voice even if your puppy was doing something dastardly or dirty. It is often how the puppy is placed in the crate and not what they were doing that makes being in the crate punish- ment.

So if you never yell and you keep your emo- tions under control, the crate will always be a happy place. Always get your puppy and lead him to the crate using a leash. Never call your puppy to the crate.

If your puppy makes a fool out of you, your temper will undoubtedly rise, and now the crate will seem like punishment. Turn a radio on low volume or a fan on low. This will provide enough background noise for your puppy. Even if your puppy is acting inappropri- ately and you need to use the crate for a time-out, do not use anger when crating your puppy. Remain calm when using the crate so your puppy does not associate your anger or emotion- ality with the crate itself. Cover all bases!

When your puppy is overly stimulated, you can cover the crate with a blanket to remove excess stimulation. Most often, puppies calm right down when cov- ered. Leave the side facing the wall open for ven- tilation. How to Use the Crate Give your puppy frequent elimination breaks in and out of the crate to ensure that your house and the crate remain clean. In puppyhood, your puppy will not understand being crated as a negative reinforcement for bad behavior.

It will, however, settle her down if rest is truly what she needs, or if she is becoming too stimulated during play. The crate is a valuable tool for providing time management for your puppy. The best way to use the crate is to set a schedule for your puppy. The key to good management is many repetitions in and out of the crate. Have at least five planned activities ready when your puppy is out of the crate. These activities should last between thirty and forty-five minutes total for a young puppy.

After this time is over, allow your puppy some downtime, and then he will probably be ready for a crate nap. Establish a schedule: The very first step to housebreaking your puppy is to estab- lish a schedule. It is critical to stay as close to the same times every day until your puppy has fully understood the concept you are teaching him. The tighter you remain on schedule, the faster the puppy will develop a rhythm and internal time clock for his own schedule. Create a working schedule around the rhythms of the household.

Puppies should be fed three times a day unless work schedules prohibit. Start your schedule when the household wakes, and begin with an immediate elimination break. Write this schedule down and post it in a prominent place. If more than one per- son is caring for the puppy, make sure schedule responsibilities are understood and followed by all participating.

A unified family can ensure the success of your housebreaking venture! Direction Cue. OUTSIDE will let her know where you are going, and by using the next cue word the elimination cue word , she will link the two words with the process.

Elimination Cue. This word can be linked easily with the first potty break of the morning since most puppies need to eliminate first thing in the morning. Cue words can become gentle coaxes when you know your puppy needs to eliminate but is perhaps becoming distracted in the yard. Some people choose to pick one cue word for urination and one for defeca- tion. You have to time the cue word with the action quite a few times successfully so your puppy can make the link between the action and the words.

Carry or walk your puppy immediately outside. Using a leash, walk your puppy over to the desired elimination area. Gen- tly, but encouragingly, repeat your cue word.

Wait only three to four minutes for your puppy to eliminate. If it takes longer than this, she prob- ably does not need to eliminate or is distracted. Return inside and wait five minutes and repeat the process. If your puppy tends to eliminate indoors during this waiting period, crate her for a few minutes or keep her on a short leash with you to avoid these accidents.

Once inside, offer breakfast and some water. When your puppy finishes, take her outside for another elimination break. In this morning rou- tine, your puppy should both urinate and defe- cate. When feeding your puppy, allow only ten to fifteen minutes for eating. This will encourage a timely and efficient feeding schedule.

This, in turn, helps with a timely, rhyth- mic elimination schedule. If your puppy is wandering around during mealtime, you may need to put her on- leash and restrict her motion around the kitchen until she is finished. After the bowl is empty or time is up, remove the bowl and do not feed your dog again until the next scheduled feeding. During feeding, pick a quiet area or time to feed. Eliminating distractions will allow your puppy to focus on the task at hand. Be prepared for setbacks!

Puppies at the age of eight to ten weeks will void them- selves completely when they eliminate. As they age to between eleven and thirteen weeks, muscle control of the bladder begins to develop. At this stage, it is not uncommon for the puppy to elimi- nate only a portion of their contents and then become distracted by a leaf, noise, or their own tail. The puppy will return inside and promptly eliminate again. This is not a deliberate action, just a lack of concentration. Practice puppy con- centration exercises and keep a keen eye to see if your puppy is voiding completely.

What do you do if your puppy has an accident? Be calm. Yelling or otherwise startling or scaring the puppy may teach him not to eliminate in front of you. Pick up the puppy and immediately take him to the desired elimina- tion area. This will cause her to lose trust in you for doing such a distasteful act to her. She may also think that you are displeased with the act rather than the location of it. That may cause her to not want to eliminate in front of you. This could lead to her sneaking off and hiding to eliminate, eliminating in her crate, or eating her own stool.

Thoroughly clean the accident area with an odor neutralizer. If the scent remains, the puppy will assume this area is appropriate for elimination. Special Considerations of Housebreaking Should people with jobs own dogs? Sure, but remember that housebreaking a young puppy without a midday elimination break is more difficult on the both the puppy and owner alike.

The owner must allow and provide space for more frequent accidents and an overall longer process. Hiring a dog-walking service to aid in this developmental period is also a good idea to help avoid long crating periods while your puppy is young.

Keeping them clean now will stimulate their own ability to be clean later. Keep a good schedule to aid in this cleanliness process.

In later stages of housebreaking three months on , avoid absorbent bedding. If your puppy can eliminate and have the offending material absorbed, he can push it off to one side.

Removal of bedding at this point will require your puppy to really try to remain clean in between scheduled potty breaks. Avoid tethering your puppy outside. Nat- ural instincts will tell the puppy not to soil an area they spend extended amounts of time in. This may cause the puppy not to eliminate out- side or start eliminating inside the crate. Not all puppies give obvious signals when they need to eliminate, but they do give signs.

Watch your puppy carefully and note some of the more common signals: waking up, sudden sniffing, circling, moving to a remote area, or just a puzzled look. Act quickly to get your puppy to the elimination area as quickly as possible.

When activity level changes, your puppy could have an accident. This applies to sleeping and waking, playing then stopping, after a car ride, after a meal, etc.

Your puppy can be playing, drinking, walking, or chew- ing a bone and may just spontaneously urinate. Until her body develop- ment catches up, this is quite common. What goes in must come out, and this applies to both treats and water. Limit treat volume. Fre- quent treats are okay, but offer small bits instead of big bones. Watch the water intake as well.

The rule of thumb is to make sure your puppy has plenty of water to clean his system. Quality food is highly digestible. What this means to the housebreaking process is the more readily digestible the food, the less the puppy must eliminate. A bargain food- store brand has plenty of fillers. For every one hundred pounds of food your puppy eats, he may eliminate fifty to sixty pounds in the yard! One hundred pounds of a higher-quality pet-store brand may only yield thirty-five to forty pounds in the yard.

The more frequently the puppy must eliminate, the harder the housebreaking process. Check the protein source on the bag you are currently feeding your puppy e. Switch the protein source and see if the stool changes. Always switch foods slowly over at least a week interval to avoid diarrhea.

Encouraging paper elimination leads the puppy to understand that, under the correct circumstances, it is okay to eliminate in the house. If your puppy is having trouble under- standing where to eliminate, place a soiled paper or pad outside in the area reserved for elimination. During the next scheduled bath- room break, take the puppy out to the desired area and show him the pad. Repeat your cue word encouragingly and praise for success.

Feeding your puppy in a quiet, peaceful area will remove the chances of her becoming stressed out and defensive about meal- times. Too much activity and commotion near her feeding area may cause her to startle quickly, ingest her food too quickly, or become protective.

If her litter was large, she may have had a great deal of competition either for a teat on the mother dog or for food in a bowl as she was weaned onto dog food. This competition is stressful and may have caused her to have to fight to claim her food. Sit quietly by your dog in a chair, holding her leash. This gives not only direction to your puppy, but also enhances her ability to adapt to someone being near to her food bowl. Sometimes your puppy may perceive that as a challenge. Just touch her as the next step in desensitizing her.

Praise her gently for allowing you to interact with her. At later feed- ing sessions, reach into her food bowl and touch her food. Again, praise her for not responding. Keeping her safe is your first goal. Since pup- pies have no self-control or concept of right and wrong yet, you do not want to risk her safety by having ingestible items readily available. Plug up outlets with childproof out- let covers. Whiskers and tongues may find investigation a shocking experience!

All jokes aside, this could be very dangerous, if not life-threatening to your puppy. Hide television, phone, and com- puter wires under furniture or objects. Not only is this dangerous to your puppy, but it can also cost you money in electronic repairs.

Bitters extract sprays can be pur- chased to spray on items that you wish your dog to remain away from. These tastes are so pungent that your dog will immediately spit the object out of his mouth and create a neg- ative association with the object. Later, the smell of the spray alone will be enough of an associa- tion with the taste to keep your puppy away from the object. The sprays need to be reapplied every other day or so to completely break the habit of chewing the object.

Houseplants can be poisonous, so do some research on the plants in your home. Bitters extract spray products exist specifi- cally for plants, but supervise your puppy around plants.

Puppy-proofing is not a license to let your puppy have free roam of the house or even of a given area. She can find the smallest of items to investigate and it could prove harmful to her. You remain her best safeguard in her daily life experiences. Nipping and mouthing are very nat- ural instincts. Everything puppies know instinctually tells them that using the mouth is one of the most natural things they will do just like crying is to a newborn baby.

This does not mean that your puppy is aggressive or temperamental, just using the only tools he understands. You will not do any one thing to get them to believe that this deeply imprinted mouthing instinct is wrong. Managing Mouthing and Nipping Your puppy will use her mouth for many dif- ferent reasons and at many different times. Keep a log of the times and circumstances of the behav- ior. You will quickly see patterns in the behaviors.

Remember that puppies are constant manage- ment, and managing this behavior today means managing it tomorrow until your puppy can learn right and wrong concepts and self-control. Puppies will nip and mouth to communicate.

Try to figure out what it is they are trying to communicate and meet that need. They may need interaction, a walk, or a nap. Mouthing to communicate only stops when a new commu- nication channel is introduced. This channel is the obedience training language. Puppies will nip and mouth to investigate. They will also use their mouths to explore textures�carpets, clothing, shoes, pil- lows, furniture, etc. To redirect investigation, encourage other play with safe, approved objects.

Puppies will nip and mouth to teeth. Your puppy will begin teething as early as four months and continue through five months smaller breeds may be delayed as much as one month. If your dog is teething, divert with a chew toy.

If your puppy spits the chew toy out and returns to your hand, you either do not have the material she needs to soothe her teething, or she has another need. This is where mouthing usually jumps into high gear. Find out where the communication breakdown is coming from. It could be a forgot- ten potty break, hunger mealtime , thirst empty water bowl , or other unfulfilled need that needs tending. Recipes for Quelling a Mouthing Situation Give your puppy a bathroom break. This is the quickest and easiest potential solution.

Cease all action by placing your puppy into a SIT position facing away from you. Once she is sitting, praise her calmly. Do not stroke or pet your dog at this point. Do not release your puppy if she is resist- ing or fighting you. Release your puppy when you feel her body relax. Try to divert with chew toys.

Try to keep it there and help her concentrate on this new action rather than the previous nipping action. This is usually a great troubleshooting action as you will quickly know if the need has been met with this one! Maybe a little interaction is the thing. If your puppy diverts for a short time with the SIT redirection or the toy redi- rection, but is still insistent in mouthing you, try a game of fetch or other game that will not over- stimulate your puppy.

Lastly, it is time for a nap. Pick your puppy up and talk quietly to her as you place her in her crate, and give her a treat for going in. Shut the door and let your puppy relax for at least fifteen minutes after her initial fidgeting in the crate has stopped.

She might even need a good, long one- or two-hour nap. Age: Adolescence covers the period between the puppy stage five months and adult stage three years. This is a period of physical, mental, and social growth. The physical growth stage will climax between nine months and one year in age. The mental and social growth stage continues from puberty through three years of age when the dog fully matures into an adult dog.

The first goal to be accomplished in the adolescent stage is to teach the obedience command language. The obedience commands will serve as the communi- cation substitute for the nipping and mouthing you endured during the puppy stage. It is also the stage to formally introduce the boundary that dogs must not use their mouth on humans. Your dog will quickly see that obedience is a vehicle to his favorite activities. Social Skills.

Good social skills begin with self-control through obedience training. Realistic goals. Set realistic goals for these stages.

As early as puberty, your dog can be exhibiting good self-control. He will continue to exhibit better self-control as you help him develop it through training and as he matures. Set small goals for each life stage and continue to build on them so that your guidance and his maturing go hand-in-hand. This loop or circle holds all of the valuable information your dog will need for his entire life. Use this time wisely to educate your dog fully so that the proper lessons will be carried into his adulthood.

Obedience will be used to create patterns that will be adopted self-applied in various situ- ations to create manners over time. Patience-building exercises are espe- cially helpful at these stages. During puberty, secondary sexual characteristics begin to blossom. Genetic imprinting such as territorial responses can also begin to surface. Mental growth driven by genetic imprinting and hormonal influences will find fer- tile ground in a dog who is becoming more confi- dent with sorting out these impulses.

The adolescent stage is defined by questioning authority and bound- aries. Your dog may have a solid grasp of the com- mands, and he might even be starting to self apply some of the patterns you have been teach- ing him. But remember, he is only beginning to understand right and wrong, and questioning these boundaries is normal.

Maintaining the protocol until actual maturity adulthood is essential. The temptation at this stage is to remove the leadership protocol activities that have chauf- feured your dog up to this point. Because your dog is not mature yet and is still questioning leader- ship and boundaries, he could slowly begin to backslide if you remove your leadership.

It is common to want to remove the training wheels of leadership when you see glimpses of good behavior. Fully developed bodies do not mean fully developed minds. Be aware of this tendency at this time and keep teaching. During the adolescent stage, true behaviors positive ones can be imprinted and behavior problems can be extinguished. Very simply, dogs need leaders. If you do not tell them how to behave, their instincts will.

Your leader- ship will help them listen to a more appropriate leader than their genetics�you! Parent or Friend? We all want to be friends with our dogs. In these adolescent stages, however, it is most important to be his parent, leader, director, and guide. Leadership now ensures that your dog will correctly learn how to be a positive family mem- ber for the rest of his life. Respect comes from how you work with your dog, how you guide him in real life, and how consistent you are in your teaching.

Gain his respect by being fair and consistent, not loud and demanding. Direction now, freedom later. This is the stage of direction and leadership! The freedom your dog will gain in adulthood comes from your direction and leadership in the adolescent stages. More direction means better teaching, better learning, and better manners. Do your job well in these stages, and you will have to do less directing later and more enjoying!

Mental needs in your adolescent dog are high. Fulfilling these needs will reduce boredom, stimulate his mind, teach con- cepts, and reduce his need to follow his instincts. You can fulfill his mental needs mostly by work- ing obedience training, whether in your home or in other locations.

Keep the training interesting and thought-provoking to pique their interests. If he does not learn this system that we call obedience training, he will continue to rely on his instinctual canine communication skills. Instinc- tual skills for a dog involve barking, mouthing, and body language to communicate concepts.

The new language, obedience training, helps the dog learn words, their meanings, and ultimately our expectations by how we use them. In the beginning around five months of age , approach training like a game for your puppy. Begin slowly and pos- itively, like a first-grade teacher would with chil- dren. Making it fun means that your dog will embrace the idea of training and learning for the rest of his life.

At six to nine months, increase the workouts. Make some lessons longer and some more difficult. Physical needs escalate in these stages of life. The amount and duration of these activities will vary according to breed, size, climate, and personality.

Keep your dog well exercised to relieve stress and to balance the mental work he needs to be doing. In this stage of teaching and directing, exercise serves as a bal- ance to all of the learning you are asking him to do. While mental work is something he needs, there is nothing like a good dose of physical exer- cise to release energy and pent up stress! Brave it and bundle up! Exercise will still be most desired by your dog even in the dead of winter.

The good news is that it will take less time to exercise them in the snow since it will tire them more quickly! Daily exercise will help to compensate for the lack of social interaction that sometimes occurs at this time of year. Take precautions to avoid frostbite on your dog. Less time outdoors in the cold, avoiding direct contact with ice, and using coats for small dogs or breeds with shorter coats are all good precautions.

Avoid any outdoor activity if the weather is especially threatening. Hot Fun in the Summertime! While summer is a great time to exercise your dog outdoors, be cautious of the extra hot or humid times of the year.

Do either shorter walks, alternate swimming activities, or walks early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the hottest times of day. Your dog may especially enjoy one physical activity over another, or a variety of activities. Some of those include walk- ing, running, fetch, hiking, swimming, retrieving, and Frisbee.

Vary your activities to keep your dog enjoying outdoor fun, or simply key in to his favorite one and supply plenty of this for balance in his life!

Be creative and diligent about getting your impressionable puppy the proper social exposures during these tricky times. Go to covered strip malls and walk, to at least have your dog continue to see people and be in a social scene. Try indoor social activities the same way you would during winter, or simply go to a park with a bowl of water for her and a bottle of water for you, and sit in the shade and enjoy being in a social environment without exerting any energy!

Generally speaking, the amount of rest your dog needs will decrease as she gets older. Early in the adolescent stage your dog will still need to have rest periods scheduled for her. Later in the adolescent stage she will learn to rest on her own. Rest is used to avoid physical injury and to pre- vent behavior accidents in curious teenagers. Be aware of the different needs in each stage.

As maturity sets in and the leaders are leading their pets, the amount of rest a dog needs as prevention wanes a bit. Expect this balance to shift as your dog grows. If her mental and physical needs are met to a high degree, your dog might need more rest in a proportional fashion.

If the mental and physical needs are not met, then your dog might need less rest and more stimulation. The language of obedience training must be positive, fun, well taught, and well received. The tools for these concepts are food, happy voice, happy facial expressions, precise and patient teaching, and an eager teacher. See the fol- lowing tips for more details about the concepts.

Food for teaching obedience. Do not worry that by using food your dog will come to depend on food in training. If you do it, the treat will come. Start out using a tiny snack for each com- pleted command. After a while, decrease the amount of treats. Reinforce after perhaps three completed commands.

Then only treat for patience commands. Then reinforce randomly so that your dog is kept guessing and working! Use a treat in conjunction with upbeat, genuine verbal praise and your smiling face. After a while, your praise and the treat should end up meaning the same thing.

It means that your dog understands working with you brings good things. He learns this by getting praise, petting, food, and affection for working with you. Rein- force training, walking, and games in this manner to emphasize teamwork. The HEEL command, with its turns, pace changes, and side-by-side position, is a perfect way to practice teamwork. Fluid movement together illustrates a beautifully synchronized team working together and paying attention to each other.

Stages and Learning When you want your dog to do something, pick up the leash and give him a formal direction like you would in a training session.

This is a very successful way to communicate a need and direction to your dog. It is also faster than waiting for the magic remote control to appear. It can take a few months to develop some behaviors. All of the skills that are taught at the onset of each stage may take the completion of that stage or moving on to the next stage to fully set as behaviors. Keeping a working knowledge of just how long it takes to build behaviors will make you a more patient teacher and owner.

Cooperation In early stages of training, you may want to let your dog release some energy by running and chasing a ball before you do obedience training.

Younger dogs have less patience and usually cooperate better if they can release first. In later stages puberty on up , make sure that training comes before play.

If your dog earns his play, you will be setting a wonderful precedent for good behavior and coop- eration. If, as your dog grows up, you only train after play, your dog may see training as an inva- sion into his playtime.

Always make your dog earn things. By asking him to do things for you and for rewards! If you begin having your dog do small tasks for everything, he will not ever know what it is to be spoiled. Play charades! Have your dog SIT as a way to gain things that he desires. If he wants a treat, make him SIT. If he wants to be petted, ask him to SIT first.

If he wants to go out- side, have him SIT at the door to put his leash on. Your dog will understand to SIT next to that which he desires. Soon you will have a dog politely com- municating his desires to you through charades. Very casually walk him into his crate, give him a treat, and thank him for his cooperation in your daily schedule. Say goodbye in a casual manner and leave for your business.

Start obedience training shortly after five months or after the completion of teething, whichever is later. This is a set of small goals with realistic timeframes. Distraction training described in chapter 8 begins after completing the initial obedience-training plan.

Younger ado- lescents will have some difficulty with distrac- tions. Puberty is the time to begin teaching Applications. You may expect your dog to learn DOWN while the family eats at the dinner table. Similarly, your dog can learn, with your guidance, how to greet people by holding a SIT although he may not be able to do this totally on his own for some time.

Begin teaching appli- cations in this stage and continue to reinforce until he has mastered them himself. You may have begun teaching these con- cepts earlier in his life, but the maturity required for true off-leash training begins in this stage.

Begin this process now and expect to mold the skills and concepts into adulthood. Instead, help your dog integrate into the family function by learning his place along with the others. Calmly walk in the door and get situated in your home, then without too much fuss, get her out of the crate and on-leash, and then greet her with affection.

Deliberate placement in the middle of or most important area of the house will cause your dog to believe he is the most important part of the house. He may never learn to be alone, and he may never want to be out of the spotlight. He should learn integra- tion, not self-centeredness. Structure and daily routine teaches a dog to follow rules. The morning routine alone of waking up, taking him for potty break, feeding him breakfast, walking him, etc. The continued use of regular, peri- odic crating at these stages helps your dog to continue to accept boundaries in life.

The boundary of the crate is a literal boundary, but teaches the idea of accepting limits as well. Structure teaches security. Without the stress of unpre- dictability, our dogs can relax and be stress-free and problem-free! Age: Adulthood begins at roughly the age of three. Earlier than three years of age, your dog may have some good skills, but will not be fully mature. Adulthood ranges from three years of age to roughly seven or eight years of age.

You can pursue any of a number of advanced activities from Therapy Dog Work to Shutzhund Competitions. See the Appendix for details on some of these activities. This is the stage of life where she truly enjoys doing things with you as opposed to having things done just for her.

Take her places, do more walks, more swims, and more playing, and enjoy life with her. Reward her for all of her hard work and learning in her earlier years. Keep the balance in check! Keeping your dog safe means keeping her listen- ing skills, obedience skills, and respect skills tuned. When your dog is tuned in to you and your leadership, you should always have the ability to command her away from danger, as well as pre- vent her from getting into it.

When the skills and responses of your dog remain sharp, not only will you maintain her phys- ical safety, but her mental safety as well. A dog that remains well trained will not develop behav- ioral problems.

Therefore your dog remains a safe being to have in society. Any other advanced work that you wish to do in this stage should be accomplished easily and with high levels of success if your foun- dation is polished and strong.

Polish any details and proceed forward with your advanced training. Your friendship will be weak and you run the risk of your dog having little respect for you. You can develop close compan- ionship by continuing to invest time in the rela- tionship with your dog. Tolerance breakdown of the situa- tion can occur. If your dog has been without leadership mentally or socially for too long, her tolerance for social isolation can break and major behavioral problems can occur due to her inability to cope with the situation.

You can change this pattern if you see it before tolerance breakdown happens or correct it when it does happen. If there are any unresolved behavior problems that exist from the previ- ous stages, chances are they will not be able to be resolved completely. At this point, behavior prob- lems may be about management instead of solu- tion.

Problems may dissipate to a large degree, but their core may remain. Some skills like off-leash training may be compromised if the proper atten- tion to detail was not given in the formative stages. Any misconceptions about her role in the family or her perspective of herself that has not been clarified in adolescence may remain an issue in adulthood.

If many incon- sistencies and mixed messages have existed in her upbringing, then they will set in adulthood. Un-mix any mixed messages to remedy this.

Likewise, your adult dog became your friend through the time you spent raising her. Continue to give her quality time each day. Having a positive training session together can be like having a very special conversation together. Stop everything for just ten to fifteen minutes and train your dog. Training your dog on a regular basis continues to polish his skills as a cooperative companion.

It will maintain rules, reinforce your positive relationship, practice your teamwork, and prevent boredom. If his skills remain sharp, you will continue to share pleasant time and good teamwork together. Knowledge is freedom. The more your adult dog knows, the more he can do. Great training skills, great listening skills, and reliable response to your commands will gain more freedom for your dog.

You will be able to take your dog more places and potentially do more activities. Try to teach your dog something new each week. This will keep his mind alert and clear. If you have an especially smart dog, or a high-drive working breed, you will want to do more training even in adulthood.

Working breeds will need many more mental activities to keep them problem-free. Keep them working fluidly by training regularly in adulthood. Be aware and alert to keeping your communication channels open.

You will sidestep many relationship and behavioral errors this way. Training daily or weekly will keep your dog from being bored. Boredom will cause your dog to revert to instinctual behav- iors with which to entertain herself. A good balance of physical exercise with mental exercise will keep your pet happy. Keep walks, runs, and ballgames high on your list of activities.

If your dog is large and energetic, you may need more of the above. If your dog is small and less hearty, you will still need to supply physical activities, but temper them for his or her endurance level. Dogs that feel sad because their own- ers no longer spend quality time with them will act out behaviorally.

Some will chew, run away, or begin house-soiling behaviors. While humans can communicate sadness or disappoint- ment with words, dogs communicate with actions. Love her unconditionally and search for the reasons why she may be misbehaving if she is. Negative behavior from a dog is always a signal that some- thing is lacking, out of balance, or stressing her. Continue outside social exposure to prevent social isolation.

This is espe- cially important in the territorially protective breeds like Rottweilers and German Shepherds. Find a new environment once a month to prevent becoming bored with the same old places. Often times we forget to acknowledge good behavior because we accidentally take it for granted. Adulthood is the season of true friendship and companionship. Your dog will want to spend quality time with you now more than ever.

She will enjoy simply being by your side. Take the time each day to do something together as good friends would. A walk, a run, a leisurely stroll around the block, time in the yard with your favorite book and her favorite toy are all ways to share time together.

Spend at least ten min- utes maybe twenty with her first. She will feel her needs fulfilled, and you can fulfill your needs more easily then. Friends listen to each other.

Your dog will hang on your every word. You will see her intently staring at you to gain either your attention or her understanding. It is said that dogs run on five-hour time clocks. They are active for five hours then at rest for five hours. Watch your adult dog for a few days and try to track her activity lev- els to see if this applies to him.

Even if this five- hour track does not apply to your dog, find out what his track is. Your adult dog will spend more time alert, awake, and ready for action at this stage in her life. Rest will be what happens when everyone goes to bed at night! Giving her too much rest during the day at this stage will cause behavioral problems.

Taking stress home rubs off on the people and animals in your environment. If your dog repeatedly feels waves of stress from you as you return from a long day at work, she will begin to feel nervous about your homecoming.

This might lead to negative behaviors from her. Do your best to take a deep breath before you enter your house and try to decrease your stress level. Continue to use her crate periodi- cally. This will send a continual sig- nal to your dog about house rules.

Continue to use obedience skills every day. This reminds your dog that you are a team, and that life is predictable and easy. Continue to praise your dog for each command she follows. Do this as heartily as you did while you were raising her. Think of this as any other relationship. And never worry again about your dog getting away from you in your yard, or in a public park. And finally, start seeing real progress in your dog training, in just 5 minutes a day of fun training games that you, your family, and your dog will love!

Following this and seeing the improvements in my dog is so satisfying especially when people stop and comment on how well she is behaving. It has improved our bond and partnership and she loves it, when it all comes together and she starts to repeat the behaviour I was wanting the happiness for us both is priceless. She loves the training sessions.

Positive reinforcement is by far the best training technique in my opinion, as you are working with the dog in a fun way rather than dominating the dog, and training through fear. I have been to one group training class, and was appalled at the techniques used there; this is an infinitely superior. I would definitely recommend this to any dog owner. Why spend hundreds and thousands of dollars on hiring a dog trainer when you can get this book for FREE and start training your dog in the comfort of your own home, five minutes from now?

Personally, I wish someone would have handed me this book twenty years ago when I got my first dog� It would have saved me years of frustration trying to train my dog without any lasting results. Click here to claim your free copy now. Almost there! Please complete the form below and we'll send it to your inbox.

We respect your privacy! You may unsubscribe from our mailing list at ANY time. Dear dog owner, I would like to personally welcome you to my website, Success Dogs. My name is Jean Cote that's me with my two dogs - Chase and Onyx. Think about that first day you brought your dog home with you.

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